So.
In my journey getting to know non-alc wines, I’ve found wine varieties that tend to be *loud* in nature, (👋🏼 Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, etc.) tend to have dealcoholized contemporaries that echo their vibe, more than subtler grapes, your Pinot Noirs, Pinot Grigios, and the like.
I’d venture to say most of the non-alc Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted have tasted, well, pretty Sauvignon Blanc-y! Citrus! Herbs! Gooseberry!
Well, I’ll say these two don’t stray from my assumptions, BUT - upon tasting both, I was more impressed than I initially expected. Kim Crawford have just launched their version, and figuring they OWN the global Sauvignon Blanc category, we’d assume it’s going to be decent. At the same time, the Leitz project out of Mosel in Germany have NAILED non-alc Riesling in particular; here in Vancouver it’s a sommelier darling. If you squint while tasting, it’s an 8% Kabinett.
With all this in mind, when I tasted them both side-by-side, I expected the mass-market Kim Crawford brand to be one-dimensional, with elevated assumptions of our German showing.
Both are good, and will scratch the itch. The Kim Crawford impresses because, for me, it’s not an ocean of bell peppers and pyrazines. I don’t love those Sauv Blanc components. Nope, this one is more guava, grapefruit, and even quince. Rounder, to be sure, but still varietally appropriate with lofty acid and zest.
The Leitz outing is more “textbook.” Lime, grapefruit, gooseberry, French herbs. A little more zesty, but ALSO a little more emollient; a touch of waxy business that harkens to the idea of a splash of Semillon in the mix.
Like Sauvignon Blanc? Neither will disappoint. Just depends on what you’re looking for.